Why does winter worsen chapped lips—and how can a good lip balm help prevent it?

Winter arrives with its frosted landscapes and invigorating air. But for our lips, the cold season often means tightness, cracks, and discomfort. Yet we rely on our lips all day long—to drink, eat, smile, speak, kiss… Fortunately, a good lip balm can become our best ally against these winter aggressions. In this article, discover why lips are so sensitive to the cold and how to protect them with the right habits and care.

Unique skin to protect with a lip balm

The structure of the lips—especially the red part, known as the vermilion—is unique, and this explains their vulnerability to environmental aggressions, particularly in winter. The skin on the lips is much thinner than elsewhere on the face. It consists of only 3 to 5 cell layers, compared to 15 to 20 in typical facial skin. This makes it more fragile, more permeable, and more prone to dehydration, chapping, and irritation.

Unlike most of the skin on our body, the lips have no sebaceous glands (which produce sebum) and no sweat glands—both essential for maintaining the protective hydrolipidic film that shields the skin from dehydration. With no natural barrier, lips are structurally more vulnerable.

The reddish or pinkish color of the lips comes from their high vascularity. The thin skin covering the vermilion lets the underlying blood vessels show through. This dense network of capillaries can make the lips more reactive—tingling, redness, or burning sensations are common in cold weather.

This is where lip balm comes in—adding an extra layer of protection against external stressors. It’s as necessary to apply daily as a face moisturizer, especially during winter.

Moreover, cold weather can slow down circulation, reducing the lips’ natural healing ability. A good lip balm can comfort the skin with soothing ingredients such as plant or algae extracts—frequently found in natural formulas. These ingredients help restore softness, suppleness, and radiance.

The effects of cold and wind on lips without lip balm

Winter reshapes not only our environment, but our skin as well. And our lips—both delicate and exposed—are among the first to suffer. Dry air and icy wind form a powerful duo that disrupts their fragile balance.

As temperatures drop, the air retains less moisture and becomes drier. Wind, meanwhile, speeds up water evaporation. By sweeping away the skin’s thin layer of hydration, it makes the surface more permeable and accentuates microlesions.

With no natural protection, the lips can quickly become dehydrated. That’s when lip balm becomes essential: it acts as a shield. It locks in moisture, protects mechanically against wind and cold, and repairs superficial cracks with nourishing and soothing ingredients.

In winter, it’s wise to keep a lip balm in every handbag—so it’s always within reach. Thanks to film-forming agents, it limits moisture loss while softening the delicate skin often exposed to harsh conditions.

Harmful habits: why lip balm is essential

Licking your lips in winter is a reflex as common as it is deceptive. It offers a fleeting sense of relief… but actually worsens irritation and dehydration. When your lips feel tight or sting, your first instinct is often to moisten them with your tongue. This creates a brief cooling or soothing sensation—but doesn’t provide real hydration.

Saliva evaporates quickly, especially in cold or windy conditions. Worse, it contains digestive enzymes like amylase and lipase, which are meant to break down food. When applied to the thin skin of the lips, they become irritating. Each lick can weaken the skin’s surface and damage its already fragile barrier. This leads to cracks, redness, and even a burning feeling.

Some scented or alcohol-based cosmetics can also worsen the issue. Even certain foods—spicy dishes, alcohol, citrus—can trigger irritation. A good lip balm soothes and repairs, forming a natural protective layer.

One effective tip is to gently exfoliate your lips once or twice a week. This removes dead skin and prepares the surface for lip balm, making it more effective. Be sure to massage gently—this area is delicate. Then apply a generous amount of a restorative balm, rich in natural ingredients.

Choosing the right lip balm: formula and usage

A quality lip balm contains nourishing ingredients like castor oil or shea butter to hydrate and protect. Be cautious of irritating substances like menthol, camphor, alcohol, or certain artificial flavors, which can actually dry the lips further. It’s crucial to distinguish hydration (adding water) from protection (creating a barrier). A good balm offers both.

Reapply 2 to 4 times a day, and always before heading out or going to bed. Choose natural formulas enriched with marine and/or botanical actives. Some balms also contain minerals and trace elements to help restore the skin’s balance. Application can be done with a slanted applicator, a stick, or clean fingers—turning this moment into a small ritual of care. For night-time, don’t hesitate to apply a thicker layer before turning off the lights for a truly reparative action.

Should you fear becoming “addicted” to lip balm?

The myth that lip balm causes dependency is widespread—but unfounded. If the formula is well-crafted, it simply supports the skin’s natural regeneration. The problem only arises with balms containing irritating agents, which can trigger a cycle of dehydration. Likewise, some glossy or tinted balms—more aesthetic than protective—should be used with discernment.

The key is to choose a lip balm that meets your skin’s real needs: repairing, nourishing, protecting. By adjusting the formula based on the time of day or activity (mountain outing, winter sports, cozy evening), you keep things varied and maximize the benefits. And if your lips remain damaged despite regular care, consider consulting a healthcare professional to rule out deficiencies or skin conditions.

Conclusion: the season of lip balm, a ritual of gentle care

Winter isn’t kind to our lips. But a good lip balm, carefully chosen and regularly applied, can make all the difference. It’s a simple, sensory, and protective gesture—fully aligned with our thalassic care philosophy: gentle, caring, and inspired by nature’s richness. So each winter, care for your smile—it’s essential to your well-being.